Doing the tourist thing...

Hello again.

I’m presently in Pushkar (India) killing town in the holy city. The picturesque town set by a holy lake near the Thar Desert. After spending a few days in Leh, Alex and I moved on to McLoad Ganj to attend the teachings by the Dalai Lama. We had to go around the Himalayas in direction of Kashmir as the road we cycled on from Manali-Leh was closed due to a nasty storm. We were very lucky to get out of the mountains in time. But we had to spend 4 days on jeeps and buses going through the mountains with fanatical Indian drivers speeding on mountain roads. I don’t recall how many times I called the driver an idiot under my nose. How can you pass on a blind curve with the only defense on your side is a horn all while being up about 500m above a gorge. This happened way to many times, add frequent landslides and a bomb we missed by a week or so in Srinagar, the nasty feel of Jammu and well you get the picture. We were happy to spend a few days with the Tibetans.

The teachings were an inspiring and brilliant experience. The wisdom and energy coming from the Dalai Lama will transform and enlighten Buddhist and non-Buddhist alike. As well, the atmosphere within the temple, early morning chants and ceremonies are quite special. The translation was done in Chinese, English and Spanish on FM radio. Some aspects of the teachings dealt specifically with Buddhism which made it a little difficult to comprehend but none the least you can learn something. Other teachings were related to wisdom and essentially how to live your life as a good human being, this I think is universal to all people regardless of their believes. I wouldn’t say I left the teachings as a changed man, but a more aware person for sure. As well being 10 meters away from the Dalai Lama is an experience on its own, his smile is just incredible, as well he does have a great sense of humor. Often to break to monotony of the teachings he will crack a joke and use his deep laugh to further please the audience. A really great man.

Then it was two more days on buses do ‘smelly’ Delhi. I spent one day in the capital and was glad to get the hell out ASAP. Unfortunately I have to spend two more days when I get back. Off to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. WOW, what a sight (everybody knows about the Taj so I won’t waste the time). Let me just say, it is beautiful but it is not Angkor Wat. Other than the tourist area (Taj Mahal and the Red Fort) , Agra is filthy. Next, Jaipur-the pink city. Beautiful architecture and nice atmosphere, but touts are a pain in the ass.


Ok, off I go… I should be in Bangkok in about a week and then off for a vacation in Toronto.
Robert

Mission Accomplished

Internet is really bad here, so it’s just a quickie.

Three of us went up to Khardung La two days ago on the 5th and two of us made it. I was one of the lucky ones. The ascend took six, two in a snowstorm. At 32km I was close to turning around as visibility was around 5m. I decided to push on and after I ascended above the cloud the snow eased off a bit. At the summit it was snowing quite hard, we got shelter in an army camp and some tea. We descended to South Pullu only to find Alex shivering from cold. He turned around at 31km, 8km from the summit. We got back to Leh at about 5:30. Long and hard day but one of the most memorable.

So the great climb is over and ascend of the highest motorable road on a bicycle is in the books.
I hanged a Plolish and Canadian flag on a spoke along with prayer flags on the summit.

I’m off to Dharamsala in order to attend a series of teachings by His Holiness the Dalai Lama.

Cheers.Very happy Robert!

Success!

I'm glad to report that the International Cycling Expedition (ICE) was a complete success. The route took 10 days over plus 2 rest days. The name ICE because I met up with a cyclist from Singapore (Alex) and a Swiss couple Sylvie and Blaise.

The Journey.
Manali. The view from my guesthouse was to the northeast, towards Rothang Pass. The first of five high altitude passes to be cycled over in the next 7-10 days. For three days I would try to measure myself against the 3978M pass and fight a mental warfare. I confess I had problems sleeping for the two days before departure. I finally set off and the first five kilometers were horrible, I thought about turning around and trying another day as my legs did not respond to the climb. After 1-hour things improved and I was able to get so k’s done. Total climb from Manali to top of Rothang is 51KM and 1270M climb. On the first day I did 37km-climbing up to Marhi. Camped for the night in my crappy Indian tent from which the rain fly fell off during the night. The second day I finished a very frustrating day of climbing due to a mass of Indian tourists wishing to see snow and therefore blocking the road completely 3 km from the top of the pass. For 2 hours I had to push my way through snow and trucks in order to get to the top. Not the reward you are looking for after a long climb. Rothang was done, I descended for about 17km down to the next village and then some more to Koksar for a rest. I was too tired to go on that day. I found a cheap guesthouse and was awoken several times during the night by an Indian family trying to get into my room. You figured that after saying three times, GO AWAY (Chelo in Hindi) that they might get the point, no such luck.

Next day was easier as no passes were in store, however I was already preparing for the biggest pass en route, Baralacha La at 4880M and a 50 km climb. I wanted to split into two days so I decided to ride 69km to Jispa in order to be at the bottom of the pass. I camped at a Himalayan Rescue Association for $1 and started eating at a local Dhaba. I had a good night sleep and started climbing up to Patseo, I felt confident as I clearly got into very good climbing shape very quickly and altitude did not bother me at all. The main problems were TATAs (Indian trucks, some very very nasty emissions) as well as stream crossings. At times the road resembles a river and walking into icy cold water is not so pleasant. Some streams toss out stones as very fast trajectories that can potentially cause serious injuries. I made to Zing Zing Bar, a relatively comfortable 30 km climb. There I met Alex from Singapore (he cycled from London to New Zealand two years ago!!!) and his friend from Germany (sorry I forgot the name). We decided to climb up to Baralacha La summit together but for anyone familiar with cycling, everybody climbs at their own speed. I got the top first and decided to head down to Baratpur. The first 15 km of the climb I was literally flying up the mountain. The glucose mix was working great, I kept spinning only took a break after 10km to wolf down a snickers bar. The last 4km were very difficult, the road disappeared at times an you had to ride through sand mixed with slush. 10 meter walls of ice were on both sides of the road. Add a section where a landslide seemed imminent and rocks were flying at you from the top. I had many close calls and was happy to get the hell out of there. The summit did not seem to arrive any time soon, only after an unexpected switchback I saw prayer flags and a sing signaling the top. I yelled out a roar of relief and sprinted to the summit. Cycling at close to 5000m is very difficult as at times you pedal 200m and stop with exhaustion grasping for air. It goes away after 30 seconds or so. It is not a pretty sight as your running nose and other nasty fluids leave your body involuntarily, it’s good thing you are alone.

Conquering Baralacha La was a very big accomplishment, as I knew that it was probably the most difficult pass on the way. I felt a big rush of confidence that it was possible to complete the rest of the journey. Alex’s German friend turned around at the summit back to Keylong in order to attend to his sick friend. Alex and I decided to take a rest day at Sarchu. The ride to Sarchu was amazing as you ride on a flat road in canyon with a tailwind, cruising at about 35km/h – incredible!

The next two passes Nakeela La (approx. 4890M) and Lachangla La (5,065m) were rather standard with a mention of Gata Loops; an interesting 21 switchbacks up a mountain. It was a bit difficult completing two passes in one day, but we made it. Alex was rather tired and we called for another rest day in Pang. We met up with the Swiss couple again and chilled out in a parachute tent drinking a record number of tea’s per day.

Following 3 days were the most incredible cycling I have ever done. After Pang you climb 300m up to Moray Plain. A 45km flat desert ride at 4700m, the colours of the mountains in Ladakh are something out a fairly tale. The incredible shades of brownish and red mountains combined with amazing shades are really inexpressible in words. I have photos to prove it. The feeling of inner peace at this vast plain in beyond reason, you have to experience it for yourself.

We camped at the bottom of the last pass – Tanglang La (5,360m). Everybody shared their food and the feeling around the camp was quite optimistic, we knew we were almost there. The next day we set off, I was the last one about 40 minutes behind the Swiss and 25m after Alex. The climb was moderate, I caught Alex after 30 minutes and the Swiss after about 1.5H. No bragging here, but with my lighter load I climbed very very fast. I decided to wait for Sylive and Blaise to get to the summit at a close interval. We made it!!! Blaise and I started making strange celebration noises and pumping our fists in the air. Sylvie arrived shortly and the Alex a bit later. We shot a lot of photos and set off on a 60km descent!!! It a crappy road at first and then the fun began, one had to be careful not to plummet down the ridge as you could fall about 300m. And then for the cycling treat, the mountains turned purple and the valley was green. Cruising downhill at 30km with a silky smooth tarmac. The look on everybody’s faces was that of something between disbelief and extreme euphoria. We cycled with our mouths wide open in silence. See photos later!!!

We got into Leh, the last 50km very via the Indus river valley. Beautiful Gompas and nice villages, but it smelled of civilization and it took a while getting used to. We took it easy and strolled into Leh midday. The first order of the day was cheesecake, followed by a hotel then beer and pizza.

Tomorrow we’re going up to the highest motorable road in the world Khardung La (5603m) at least according to the Guinness Book of Records. Whether I make it or now is secondary at this stage. The ICE expedition was the most difficult and most spectacular ride of my life and the memories of hardship, joy and new friendships will last for a lifetime. Another thing on my list of things to do is crossed off. Then again, I’m hoping to kick some ass on the climb as well tomorrow, ha ha!!! We’re going up without luggage and coming down the same day, a nice 39km – 1700M climb!!!

I’ll make a short entry if we made it to the top.

There’s still so much to write about, but I’m getting tired of sitting by the PC, it’s time for a beer!
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeers!