"IT'S A FREE FOR ALL MAN"

Oh yes, the land of Cambo has its ups and down and mix that with a hint of anarchy combined with non existent laws, add a spice of chaos of Phnom Phen and what do you get:
"IT'S A FREE FOR ALL MAN" as Tim would state every now and then. It is really a contrast between old and new considering the recent historical events in Cambodia. The people of this scorched land are some of the friendliest you will meet in the world as well some of the poorest. The countryside is filled with amazing souls greeting strangers on bicycles with friendly 'Hellos' and 'Good byes'.

Within cities a darker side comes to mind. The hordes of prostitutes tend to attack tourists 24 hours a day and people with missing limbs are a frequent sight. The constant harassment of motorcycle (moto) drivers offering lifts, ganja, massage and boom-booms can get a bit annoying at times, but hey "IT'S A FREE FOR ALL MAN" and everybody is trying to make a living, no matter what it takes. Traffic on the streets is something you have to get used to. You are being attacked from all directions and there are no road rules as well there's no road rage. Imagine pickup trucks driving on the wrong side of the road, moving aside hordes of motorbikes, bicycles and cars. Making a turn or going through an intersection is a life and death situation every time, you see an opening and essentially you just go for it, otherwise you get stuck in the middle of the intersection.

On the brighter side a huge German Shepard tried to take a bite out of my ass the other day. I was strolling along casually when the dog jumped and tried to bite into my buttock. Fortunately it was on a leash and it barely scraped my skin, I think I'll hold off on a rabies shot. Figures, dogs can not get me when I'm on a bike but they go after me when I'm walking.

Today I visited 'The killing fields' outside of Phnom Phen. The gruesome site of thousand murdered souls during the Pol Pot era (total genocide figure is quoted around 2M people, although the number is speculative). Having some stomach problems from drinking too many Red Bulls a couple of nights before, the sights of thousands of skull and bones sticking out of mass graves made me feel nauseous and rather sick to my stomach. Cindy mentioned that one thing which really puzzles her is how so king and beautiful people could be driven to such atrocities, I couldn't not agree more. But somehow I get the feeling that the genocide is slowly being forgotten, especially by the younger generations who seem to be more interested in fashion, computers and motorbikes. There's a feeling that the country is getting better and there are plenty of signs pointing to that.

We’re heading south to the beach tomorrow to relax from Phnom Phen for a couple of days, I know tough life. Since it is the new year I wish everybody good luck and may all of your wishes come true. Let’s hope that 2005 will be kinder to the human race than 2004 was.

Signing off from Cambodia.
Robert

Angkor oh Angkor

Photos should be online tonight at:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lloronapr/my_photos

As well, we hooked up with Tim and Cindy from the US who are travelling for oh... about 7 years on bicycles.
We rode for three days together and we're also honered to be a part of thier webiste log, photos and videos.
Please have a look at:
http://www.downtheroad.org/Asia/

As well Allan has updated his blog at:
Allan’s blog info:
http://www.ravenglass.com/theroad/


One of the ultimate cycling pleasures must be a trip in and around Angkor Wat. When entering the Angkor complex you start of modestly with no other but the magnificent Angkor Wat. It was built by Suryavarman II between 112-52 to honour Vishnu. Entering the temple you walk across a stone bridge. After seeing Angkor Wat numerous times on television and picture I thought the impact of the structure would be a little bit over done. Needles to say that you are blown away by the massive central tower 55 meters above ground. The temple is surrounded by a vast moat forming a rectangle of 1.5km by 1.3km.

Then off to the city of Angkor Thom. Entering through the south gate you get shivers running down your spine in anticipation of what is to come. The massive gate decorated with five serene faces of Avalokitesvara look down upon you with a calm smile and quite peaceful but vigilant eyes. After cycling for about 1km you are treated with Bayon. The 200+ faces of Avalokitesvara somehow give an impression that you are constantly being watched.

Some writing while sitting in Bayon in the afternoon:

”Sitting in Bayon has to be one of the most spiritually inspiring moments in life. Although I’m not sure how the energy can transfer to ones soul, the humble feeling of smallness arrives at the mind. I have never been so moved by a monument before, especially considering that Buddhism and Hinduism are quite distant to my origins. The faces of Bayon seem to transfer an enormous amount of wisdom and serenity. The thick smiling lips and understanding but watchful eyes of the Buddha have a quizzical and very mysterious feeling.”

One funny thing that happened at Bayon. I was really spaced out by the atmosphere of the place and completely absorbed by it when I see a monk walking within the same corridor as me. As he walked by me he smiled and said “Hi”. I replied “Hi” as well. This brought me back to earth a little.

I’m not going to go on and on about different temples, however it is worth mentioning Ta Prohm. This is the temple left overgrown by the jungle. The concept of jungle reclaiming what once belonged to it has magnificent combinations a narrow corridors and degenerating stonework. Add monuments and structures overgrown by the jungle and you get ‘Lara Croft: The Tomb Raider’. Yes this is where the movie was partially shot.

For anybody remotely interested in Angkor who considered going there; words and pictures can not describe the feelings and mysteriousness of this place. It has to be experiences first hand.

Alive in Cambodia

Hello again...

Sorry I did not write more about Angkor Wat but I will to so in a couple of days.

We have just finished riding through the heart of Cambodia and after doing close to 130km today I'm not in the mood to write much.

So much has happened in the last few days. First of all, Allan's father (one of my cycling partner's) has passed away and he was forced to finish his vacation rather abruptly and return to the US. My deepest condolences to Allan and his family. He's such a good soul and it was very hard to see him depart.

Secondly the tidal wave that has hit Asia was an experience that shook us all with disbelieve. Sitting in a small town we managed to catch BBC on short-wave radio only to learn that 20,000 people have perished. It still gives me goose bumps whenever somebody talks about it. Out hearts and deepest condolences go out to the people who lost their lives unexpectedly. I feel lucky not being in Thailand at the moment as this could have been me drinking in a bar or sleeping and perishing in a tidal wave. I guess I still have some luck on my side.

Ok, I have to go... to tired just finished riding 130km today and I'm a little tired.

There's some much to write about and I promise I will catch up on the blog.

Cheers and all the best.

Robert

‘A Holiday in Cambodia’

Warm Welcome from Angkor Wat!!!

Yes, I’m finally back on the road, this time it is the infamous roads of Cambodia. Actually it has not been that bad. Well let’s start with the boarder crossing at Poipet.. The surreal amposphere and the thousands of people crossing from Cambo to Thailand was a sight on its own. The actual checkpoints were nothing out of the ordinary, but as a general rule I hate border crossings and this one was not exception.

Coming into Cambodia, you feel being set back about 20 years from Thailand. First day on the road was relatively easy, about 54km all paved. We stopped at a lovely hotel in Sissapon for a night, luckily our hotel offered rooms only, another one very close to us offered a somewhat ‘extended customer service packages’ … you get the drift.

On the second day our lives have turned to hell. All the dust you can eat, but no pot holes. It had to be one of the dirtiest days ever on a bike and the fact that I applied sunscreen at around 9am, well it created a nice coating of dirt and with the sun scorching from above we nick named it ‘Shake and Bake’, you do feel like a chicken sometimes. We have cycled 105km that day with 70km in the dust.

I know I went on and on about Thai people, so far the people in Cambodia are as friendly, sometimes in the villages they seem to surround you – especially the kids! I think me like it here!

One of my cycling partners Pat (from Sudbury) is quite a fit cyclist, especially considering that he’s 45. I wish I will be in the shape he’s in when I’m that age. My other partner, Allan from Albany New York is quite an interesting fellow, a journalist working for the Union Times.
Allan’s blog info:
http://www.ravenglass.com/theroad/
For better writing and great stories please visit his website.

Ok, I have to go, I’ll update the blog in two days after I’m done visiting Angkor Wat.
But as a sneak preview, I have to say that no other monument or architectural structure I have seen in my life, remotely compares to Angkor. The energy coming from the temples and ruins is something to experience. More to come.

As well, all the best during the holiday season to friends and co-workers.

Cheers,
Robert

Now you can comment on my spelling mistakes !

Hello!

I have figured out how you can give me some hard time as well.
At the bottom of each post there is a link 'Post Comment'. You should be able to add your thoughts or ideas for the blog as you please. Geee, it only took me 2 months to figure this out.
I never said I was the sharpest tool in the box. hehehe.

Anywho, I'm back in Bangkok, waiting to go to Cambodia. I've picked up a slight cold as it really got cold at night. Quite an unusual spell for this time of year. I'm shaking it off, plus it is a blessing in disguise as I had to cut down on drinking and yes you guessed it, I DO FEEL A LOT BETTER!

Cheers for now.
Robert a.k.a. Switched from beer to water for a while.

Same Same but Different

Just a few notes on some cultural events and society in general.
While in Pai and Chiang Mai, I have participated in the annual Loi Krathong Festival. It consists of creating your own Krathong, essentially a float built our of banana trees decorated with flowers and insets. Within the float you include anything you desire: money, nail clippings, hair, etc... When releasing the Krathong into the river you make a wish and as an added bonus all your sins get erased (yes! we went out to party afterwards as our sin account was empty and it felt rather awkward living without any sins). The whole ceremony corresponds to a full moon, as well as other events in Thailand, especially full moon parties on the islands in the South.

For the last two days we have been feasting at a food festival in Chiang Mai. The variety of food and especially seafood has been outstanding. Although, Thai entertainment can get a bit annoying. Eating shellfish, mussels, octopus, shrimp, squid and anything else that floats was quite an experience.

Today is the King's birthday, 77 years old. He is quite an influential figure in Thailand as well as a well respected figure within the society. Nobody will speak in negative fashion about his Majesty, unlike the prime minister Thaksin who appears too be quite corrupt and about 50% of the country does not agree with him policies of running the country as a business. Well considering he owns major corporations within the state and organizes his policies too accommodate such enterprises makes a few people upset. But no worries, if opposition arises, a good old bribe will make new friends for Mr. Thaksin. Elections are coming in January and everybody knows what the outcome will be. Did I mention he also own major newspaper chains in Thailand, hmm, I wonder how this happened. Anyways back to the king, there are big celebrations all over the country today for King B-day. Another interesting thing, the king’s dog biography sold 500,000 copies and was translated to an English language comic book about the life behind the dog and behavior. Go figure. Actually so many weird things go on here, that after a while you just say 'Oh whatever, it's just another day in Thailand'. I've heard that India is supposed to be 'even more far out man'.

Ok, ta-ta for now and be good all of you kids out there. I know I'm trying to be good - yeah right.
Cheers.

p.s. I finished cycling the final 25km to Chiang Mai. It took three weeks of rest but by God I HAVE DONE IT! Cambodia is next on the menu, I can not wait to eat dust for three weeks, bribe the Cambodian police, eat some tasty dogs and cycle along highways littered with land mines, oh the joys of life.