The big one...
The time has to do attempt one of the most difficult roads in Asia and perhaps in the world: The Manali - Leh highway. On the menu are four passes Rothang La at 3978M (which encouragingly means ‘a pile of dead bodies’), Baralacha La at 4850M, Lachang La at 5019M and the second highest road in the world Taglang La at 5360M. Total distance 485KM, duration: about 8-10 days; total cumulative climb :5816m. Have I lost my mind, perhaps, but I’ve been thinking about this road for a long time and now I’m quite anxious to get going.
I decided to rent a tent as some distances would be very difficult to complete in one day, a fine Indian tent may I add, let’s hope it will survive. Add altitude sickness pills, half a kilo of glucose, peanut butter, bread, hydration salts, almonds, a can of tuna, chocolate (lots!) and cookies. Water will be a problem and food for sure, I bought a plastic container to hold extra food. I’m hoping to hook up with cyclist on the way but in case of emergency there’s steady traffic so I should be able to get a ride if need be. I’m not doing anything heroic; I don’t want to get into any unnecessary health issues due to fatigue and attitude.
Road profile:
http://www.sentient-entity.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/route.html
If everything goes well I intent to ride the highest motorable road in the world (well at least according to Indian authorities, the Bolivians seem to have a different opinion) the Khardung La at staggering 5603 meters (some quote it at 5450 meters) in a 39KM climb starting in Leh at altitude of 3505M.
I rode for four days already from Shimla to Manali. The ride was spectacular although one day was very difficult and I will not be able to ever forget it, the Jalori Jot at 3050M. A 45KM – 2385M climb, 55Km total on the day, 5.5h riding time, 8h total time with staggering average speed of 9.6. The last 6km, 600M, were out of a cyclist horror movie. Gradients ranged from 10% to unbelievable 17%. I know this from notes from other cyclists I pulled of the web. 6km took me 2h to climb up and for most part I was pushing the bike uphill, at the same time I was close to giving up and hailing a ride. Finally I made it and decided to rest for about an hour sharing Chai (tea) with motorbike tourers on the top. When I decided to get going after just 2km a thunderstorm broke out, I was stranded under a pine tree (I know, not a good place to be especially when your bike is in close proximity). The thunderstorm was close and the sound of thunder so loud that at times I came close to pissing my pants, I decided to take a leak before it would be too late. Quickly I jumped into rain gear and put on extra layers. The drop in temperature was swift and I was afraid I would get a cold. Finally after about an hour or so it let off and I decided to head down to the next village to find shelter for the night, as soon as I got going it started coming down. The road was muddy and brake failure was not an option. You would drop like a rock to the bottom of the valley. I finally found a nice resthouse and called it a day.
The descent was quite harsh and I actually wished I was going the other way but what else is new. Very harsh on the wrists as I had to really pull the brakes hard in order to be descending at about 10KM/h. Later the road improved and it was quite nice rolling down by the river with picturesque villages and friendly locals. The road to Kullu valley was nice, but the actual valley is too developed. The next day I decided to go on the other side of the river, it was more difficult but well worth it, it seemed that the other side of the river was about 20 years behind the west side. On the way I met an India journalist who took my vitals and a photograph in order to write an article. I don’t know which paper and it will be in Hindi, hopefully he will email me some info on it.
Manali is a nice town, especially the Old Manali part of the town. Ganja grows just about everywhere and everybody seems to be smoking hash. Unfortunately, being a good cyclist boy right now I stay away from the substances and only drink fine Indian rum.
Ok, I’m off to get a good night sleep. Wish me luck as I will need every bit of it.
I hope to write from Leh.
Cheers, have a drink for me.
Robert
I decided to rent a tent as some distances would be very difficult to complete in one day, a fine Indian tent may I add, let’s hope it will survive. Add altitude sickness pills, half a kilo of glucose, peanut butter, bread, hydration salts, almonds, a can of tuna, chocolate (lots!) and cookies. Water will be a problem and food for sure, I bought a plastic container to hold extra food. I’m hoping to hook up with cyclist on the way but in case of emergency there’s steady traffic so I should be able to get a ride if need be. I’m not doing anything heroic; I don’t want to get into any unnecessary health issues due to fatigue and attitude.
Road profile:
http://www.sentient-entity.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/route.html
If everything goes well I intent to ride the highest motorable road in the world (well at least according to Indian authorities, the Bolivians seem to have a different opinion) the Khardung La at staggering 5603 meters (some quote it at 5450 meters) in a 39KM climb starting in Leh at altitude of 3505M.
I rode for four days already from Shimla to Manali. The ride was spectacular although one day was very difficult and I will not be able to ever forget it, the Jalori Jot at 3050M. A 45KM – 2385M climb, 55Km total on the day, 5.5h riding time, 8h total time with staggering average speed of 9.6. The last 6km, 600M, were out of a cyclist horror movie. Gradients ranged from 10% to unbelievable 17%. I know this from notes from other cyclists I pulled of the web. 6km took me 2h to climb up and for most part I was pushing the bike uphill, at the same time I was close to giving up and hailing a ride. Finally I made it and decided to rest for about an hour sharing Chai (tea) with motorbike tourers on the top. When I decided to get going after just 2km a thunderstorm broke out, I was stranded under a pine tree (I know, not a good place to be especially when your bike is in close proximity). The thunderstorm was close and the sound of thunder so loud that at times I came close to pissing my pants, I decided to take a leak before it would be too late. Quickly I jumped into rain gear and put on extra layers. The drop in temperature was swift and I was afraid I would get a cold. Finally after about an hour or so it let off and I decided to head down to the next village to find shelter for the night, as soon as I got going it started coming down. The road was muddy and brake failure was not an option. You would drop like a rock to the bottom of the valley. I finally found a nice resthouse and called it a day.
The descent was quite harsh and I actually wished I was going the other way but what else is new. Very harsh on the wrists as I had to really pull the brakes hard in order to be descending at about 10KM/h. Later the road improved and it was quite nice rolling down by the river with picturesque villages and friendly locals. The road to Kullu valley was nice, but the actual valley is too developed. The next day I decided to go on the other side of the river, it was more difficult but well worth it, it seemed that the other side of the river was about 20 years behind the west side. On the way I met an India journalist who took my vitals and a photograph in order to write an article. I don’t know which paper and it will be in Hindi, hopefully he will email me some info on it.
Manali is a nice town, especially the Old Manali part of the town. Ganja grows just about everywhere and everybody seems to be smoking hash. Unfortunately, being a good cyclist boy right now I stay away from the substances and only drink fine Indian rum.
Ok, I’m off to get a good night sleep. Wish me luck as I will need every bit of it.
I hope to write from Leh.
Cheers, have a drink for me.
Robert
posted by Rob at 7:20 AM
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