Everest Base Camp / Part I - Jiri to Namche Bazaar
The first day started quite dreadfully as after just 30 minutes I have lost the trail! I descended down to the river only for the locals to inform me that the trail is up on the ridge, great start. The trail split into numerous paths within the forest and there was nobody around to ask for directions. After about 1 hour I found myself back on the trail, heading the right way for a change.
I ran into three trekkers from Israel and we decided to hook up for a few days. The have a guide and a porter carrying really excessive baggage. Myself, a small backpack weighting about 9 kg, including sleeping bag and winter clothes. The day took about 11 hours to reach Deorali, it should have taken about 6-7 h, however due to one person who is about 49 years old, this is to be expected, after all I’m getting a free ride so I have no grounds for complains. This has put us in a difficult situation for tomorrow as we face a grueling 2000 meter climb up to Lamjura La, the highest point on the trail before Namche Bazaar. We did not get to Sete, which would have been a mid point of the pass making the next day more manageable. In all honestly the guide should have ordered an earlier start in order to break down the pass, this lack of decision would haunt us for the next few days.
The scenery was quite breathtaking right from the get go. As we cross mountain passes and cling along narrow ridges overlooking field terraces of wheat, cabbages, potatoes and lentils flourishing on the mountainsides. Giant gorges seem to fill the landscape as rivers carve their way across the land.
Porters, which are ‘the backbone’ of Nepalese economy, due to the fact that most goods up to Lukla (airstrip) are carried in wicker baskets by the Nepalese men, women and children. Some carry loads in excess of 90 kilo, most around 40 kilo. A porter gets paid per kilogram, therefore the more they carry the more money they make. The strength of theses individuals is quite amazing, knowing firsthand how hard it is to get over the mountain passes with 9 kilo, you can only imagine what they have to go through. Armed with a walking stick and flip-flops they sleep in caves or very modest teahouses and cook their own meals. Check out http://www.portersprogress.org/ to learn more or to help out. Children in worn out and dirty clothes run around villages shouting hellos and asking for a writing pen, typical tourist infraction.
Many times it is difficult to make journal entries, as at the end of the day you are dead tired. You can barely find enough energy to eat, washing is a luxury and a shower is a memory of the past. Lamjura La turned out to be quite a beast as I’m still trying to get into shape. It took 9.5 hours to reach the top, well I took many tea breaks with a guide which I met along the way. The climb was quite punishing and the top seemed elusive at times. Near the apex, walking among thick clouds the scenery was something of a horror movie. Moss covered trees scattered among lifeless ground with visibility limited to about 10 meters. This is where I met a fellow trekker who has met the Maoist. I managed to dodge the bullet – sort of speak by lying that I paid 500 rupees before and did not get a receipt, adding ‘No gun, no money’. Well it worked for now until…
At the top of the pass I stopped at a teahouse and said good-bye to the guide and stopped for a break in order to await the arrival of other trekkers. The porters were the last to arrive at dusk and we had to lodge on the top of the mountain for the night. The weather was quite terrible that night as gusts of wind, hail and thunderstorms ravaged the mountain pass (3500 meters). With two additional blankets I got through the morning only to be awoken by my good friends “The Maoist”.
Breakfast with the Maoist.
The owner to the lodge came into out sleeping area to inform us that the Maoist are waiting inside to lodge to ‘join us for breakfast’. I knew what was coming and said that I’m sick and unfortunately I have to decline the offer. After about an hour or so, I short man entered the room and stated that I should hurry up as they are in a rush to get off the mountain. Well, that pissed me off. I hate to give bribes in the first place and especially without my morning coffee. I stepped outside and was seated beside some block that spoke English. I went after him right away stating that their whole revolution is a sham extracting money from innocent people including trekkers, porters and lodge owners. I said their activities within the area discourage tourism, therefore cutting directly into local people’s income, un top of that they’re intrusions and kidnapping of locals further destabilize the local economy. I asked what are you really fighting for, he replied “For the Nepalese people”. I looked at him with a grin. Finally I said, “We’re on top of a mountain pass, you have guns and I have no way out, I guess I will make a donation”. I tossed 1000 rupees (around $18) on the table and took the receipt. They also wanted our guide’s jacket and money from our porter. Recently the change in the Maoist leadership led to radicalism and further corruption, porters are switching to the Maoist camp in order to make easier money. I have read quite a bit about different communist revolutions, this one is an extortion practice sponsored apparently by China and India in order to destabilize Nepal. No sympathy from me as well as most of the locals in the area.
Last two days were a little easier and the scenery has been great. The morning vistas offer views of Numbur (6959m), snow capped peaks and lush green mountainsides are breathtaking. Crossing suspension bridges over emerald green rivers shaving their way into mountain walls, just as they have for eons before my arrival. The trail is rugged and filled with loose rocks. I parted with my Israeli trekking partners and hooked up with Simon from Quebec, we move at the same speed ( twice as fast as I did before). We met a Tibetan refugee heading back home illegally after studying for 11 years in Nepal, I wish him luck heading back to Lhasa.
The last major pass before Namche Bazaar proved to be a bit challenging. The steep climb up to about 2800m took some effort, after seeing the fattest pig at this elevation in the world we descended into pouring rain; it was time to find shelter fast. We scoured to the nearest teahouse waited out the cloud and pressed on for another 2 hours. It was worth the effort as when the clouds cleared out, we were greeted with a small valley filled with snow-capped peaks. The weather was not all that great so far, but for the moments when the mountains reveal their beauty it is worth the wait. Up to Namche tomorrow, finally a bakery, hmm, donuts…..
End of part I.
I ran into three trekkers from Israel and we decided to hook up for a few days. The have a guide and a porter carrying really excessive baggage. Myself, a small backpack weighting about 9 kg, including sleeping bag and winter clothes. The day took about 11 hours to reach Deorali, it should have taken about 6-7 h, however due to one person who is about 49 years old, this is to be expected, after all I’m getting a free ride so I have no grounds for complains. This has put us in a difficult situation for tomorrow as we face a grueling 2000 meter climb up to Lamjura La, the highest point on the trail before Namche Bazaar. We did not get to Sete, which would have been a mid point of the pass making the next day more manageable. In all honestly the guide should have ordered an earlier start in order to break down the pass, this lack of decision would haunt us for the next few days.
The scenery was quite breathtaking right from the get go. As we cross mountain passes and cling along narrow ridges overlooking field terraces of wheat, cabbages, potatoes and lentils flourishing on the mountainsides. Giant gorges seem to fill the landscape as rivers carve their way across the land.
Porters, which are ‘the backbone’ of Nepalese economy, due to the fact that most goods up to Lukla (airstrip) are carried in wicker baskets by the Nepalese men, women and children. Some carry loads in excess of 90 kilo, most around 40 kilo. A porter gets paid per kilogram, therefore the more they carry the more money they make. The strength of theses individuals is quite amazing, knowing firsthand how hard it is to get over the mountain passes with 9 kilo, you can only imagine what they have to go through. Armed with a walking stick and flip-flops they sleep in caves or very modest teahouses and cook their own meals. Check out http://www.portersprogress.org/ to learn more or to help out. Children in worn out and dirty clothes run around villages shouting hellos and asking for a writing pen, typical tourist infraction.
Many times it is difficult to make journal entries, as at the end of the day you are dead tired. You can barely find enough energy to eat, washing is a luxury and a shower is a memory of the past. Lamjura La turned out to be quite a beast as I’m still trying to get into shape. It took 9.5 hours to reach the top, well I took many tea breaks with a guide which I met along the way. The climb was quite punishing and the top seemed elusive at times. Near the apex, walking among thick clouds the scenery was something of a horror movie. Moss covered trees scattered among lifeless ground with visibility limited to about 10 meters. This is where I met a fellow trekker who has met the Maoist. I managed to dodge the bullet – sort of speak by lying that I paid 500 rupees before and did not get a receipt, adding ‘No gun, no money’. Well it worked for now until…
At the top of the pass I stopped at a teahouse and said good-bye to the guide and stopped for a break in order to await the arrival of other trekkers. The porters were the last to arrive at dusk and we had to lodge on the top of the mountain for the night. The weather was quite terrible that night as gusts of wind, hail and thunderstorms ravaged the mountain pass (3500 meters). With two additional blankets I got through the morning only to be awoken by my good friends “The Maoist”.
Breakfast with the Maoist.
The owner to the lodge came into out sleeping area to inform us that the Maoist are waiting inside to lodge to ‘join us for breakfast’. I knew what was coming and said that I’m sick and unfortunately I have to decline the offer. After about an hour or so, I short man entered the room and stated that I should hurry up as they are in a rush to get off the mountain. Well, that pissed me off. I hate to give bribes in the first place and especially without my morning coffee. I stepped outside and was seated beside some block that spoke English. I went after him right away stating that their whole revolution is a sham extracting money from innocent people including trekkers, porters and lodge owners. I said their activities within the area discourage tourism, therefore cutting directly into local people’s income, un top of that they’re intrusions and kidnapping of locals further destabilize the local economy. I asked what are you really fighting for, he replied “For the Nepalese people”. I looked at him with a grin. Finally I said, “We’re on top of a mountain pass, you have guns and I have no way out, I guess I will make a donation”. I tossed 1000 rupees (around $18) on the table and took the receipt. They also wanted our guide’s jacket and money from our porter. Recently the change in the Maoist leadership led to radicalism and further corruption, porters are switching to the Maoist camp in order to make easier money. I have read quite a bit about different communist revolutions, this one is an extortion practice sponsored apparently by China and India in order to destabilize Nepal. No sympathy from me as well as most of the locals in the area.
Last two days were a little easier and the scenery has been great. The morning vistas offer views of Numbur (6959m), snow capped peaks and lush green mountainsides are breathtaking. Crossing suspension bridges over emerald green rivers shaving their way into mountain walls, just as they have for eons before my arrival. The trail is rugged and filled with loose rocks. I parted with my Israeli trekking partners and hooked up with Simon from Quebec, we move at the same speed ( twice as fast as I did before). We met a Tibetan refugee heading back home illegally after studying for 11 years in Nepal, I wish him luck heading back to Lhasa.
The last major pass before Namche Bazaar proved to be a bit challenging. The steep climb up to about 2800m took some effort, after seeing the fattest pig at this elevation in the world we descended into pouring rain; it was time to find shelter fast. We scoured to the nearest teahouse waited out the cloud and pressed on for another 2 hours. It was worth the effort as when the clouds cleared out, we were greeted with a small valley filled with snow-capped peaks. The weather was not all that great so far, but for the moments when the mountains reveal their beauty it is worth the wait. Up to Namche tomorrow, finally a bakery, hmm, donuts…..
End of part I.
posted by Rob at 7:47 AM
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