Smokin' in Lao
Lao: Leg One is done!
I have spent the last 9 days of wonderful cycling across southern Lao. It was really quite wonderful for most part; not having to fight with traffic and being left alone to thump on the pedals do some serious riding, unlike Cambodia, where I’ve spent more time sitting around and doing nothing. Funny enough, in the last 10 days I have cycled more kilometers in more days as well then I did in Cambodia in almost a month. But that’s life I guess. In my defense Cambodia did have many bad roads… enough said.
The biggest problem so far (well other than the mountain passes ahead of me) has been the map. I thought it was a pretty good one showing quite a few towns and small roads but in reality is quite, well how should I put it… SHIT! Sorry for the bad language, but when you have cycled for 60KM and you are looking for a place to eat and the map tells you that, yes, there’s a town 10KM ahead. Then you say, ok I will pass on the mystery meal in this village and have something decent in the next town. But, when the town does not appear in the next 20KM and you are desperate to eat, because otherwise you will hit the wall, then the map in of no use. This has happened on several occasions where the “towns” turned out to be nothing but a couple of wooden houses on stilts and small villages turned out to be: yes, you guessed it, sizeable towns. As well the names of the towns on the map are something to be desired when compared to Laotian road signs.
Ok, I got that off my chest.
The biggest obstacles has been animals in the middle of the road. Imagine driving on the 401 or 400 and a bunch of cows, goats or chickens are running across the highway. Trying to dodge them is always fun, after my close call in Cambodia I promised myself that if I’ll crash my bike IT WILL NOT BE INTO SOME KIND OF CATTLE! Let me do it with dignity. It’s like being killed by a coconut for crying out loud. This, believe it or not has been the main problem in Lao.
I’m becoming an expert at drafting behind tractors or anything that can give me some kind of protection. Drafting is essentially using an object in from of you to protect yourself against the wind, therefore going faster and using less energy. My greatest thanks to a Laotian farmer and his son of whom I drafted for about 30KM on a very tough day. After we parted he blew me a good-bye kiss and I did give him one as well.
Very warm and interesting people who love to share their beer with you, hmmm, beer.
Ok, speaking of beer, I think I have to go.
Cheers.
To recap the first leg of Lao.
Vouen Kham (Cambodia) – Don Khlong (Lao) – 35 KM
Don Khlong – Pakse – 136KM
Pakse – Khong Sedan – 64 KM
Khong Sedan – Paksong – 107 KM
Paksong – Savanakhet – 73 KM
Savanakhet – Thakek – 137 KM
Thakek – Namthone – 105 KM
Namthone – Thabak – 147 KM
Thabak – Vietiane – 94 KM
Total including border day: 898 KM
Daily average excluding border day: 108 KM per day (not bad for a guy who drinks and smokes, yes I know I will get my ass kicked in the mountains because of smoking)
I have spent the last 9 days of wonderful cycling across southern Lao. It was really quite wonderful for most part; not having to fight with traffic and being left alone to thump on the pedals do some serious riding, unlike Cambodia, where I’ve spent more time sitting around and doing nothing. Funny enough, in the last 10 days I have cycled more kilometers in more days as well then I did in Cambodia in almost a month. But that’s life I guess. In my defense Cambodia did have many bad roads… enough said.
The biggest problem so far (well other than the mountain passes ahead of me) has been the map. I thought it was a pretty good one showing quite a few towns and small roads but in reality is quite, well how should I put it… SHIT! Sorry for the bad language, but when you have cycled for 60KM and you are looking for a place to eat and the map tells you that, yes, there’s a town 10KM ahead. Then you say, ok I will pass on the mystery meal in this village and have something decent in the next town. But, when the town does not appear in the next 20KM and you are desperate to eat, because otherwise you will hit the wall, then the map in of no use. This has happened on several occasions where the “towns” turned out to be nothing but a couple of wooden houses on stilts and small villages turned out to be: yes, you guessed it, sizeable towns. As well the names of the towns on the map are something to be desired when compared to Laotian road signs.
Ok, I got that off my chest.
The biggest obstacles has been animals in the middle of the road. Imagine driving on the 401 or 400 and a bunch of cows, goats or chickens are running across the highway. Trying to dodge them is always fun, after my close call in Cambodia I promised myself that if I’ll crash my bike IT WILL NOT BE INTO SOME KIND OF CATTLE! Let me do it with dignity. It’s like being killed by a coconut for crying out loud. This, believe it or not has been the main problem in Lao.
I’m becoming an expert at drafting behind tractors or anything that can give me some kind of protection. Drafting is essentially using an object in from of you to protect yourself against the wind, therefore going faster and using less energy. My greatest thanks to a Laotian farmer and his son of whom I drafted for about 30KM on a very tough day. After we parted he blew me a good-bye kiss and I did give him one as well.
Very warm and interesting people who love to share their beer with you, hmmm, beer.
Ok, speaking of beer, I think I have to go.
Cheers.
To recap the first leg of Lao.
Vouen Kham (Cambodia) – Don Khlong (Lao) – 35 KM
Don Khlong – Pakse – 136KM
Pakse – Khong Sedan – 64 KM
Khong Sedan – Paksong – 107 KM
Paksong – Savanakhet – 73 KM
Savanakhet – Thakek – 137 KM
Thakek – Namthone – 105 KM
Namthone – Thabak – 147 KM
Thabak – Vietiane – 94 KM
Total including border day: 898 KM
Daily average excluding border day: 108 KM per day (not bad for a guy who drinks and smokes, yes I know I will get my ass kicked in the mountains because of smoking)
posted by Rob at 5:33 AM
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