Templed out in Bagan
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Last few days I have spent sick and this has not been good timing considering I have arrived in Bagan. One of the most interesting sites in SEA consisting of 40 Square Km filled with stupas (zedis) and pathos (ancient pagodas). The amount of ancient ruins is quite staggering, the official number is about 2500+, but is you take into account not fully unexcavated sites its more like 4000+. Climbing some of the temples reveals the plains dotted with pagodas.
As spectacular as they are, after 3 days you are so called 'Templed Out'. Most temples have a similar layout, four sided, main entrance from the east. I have visited about 30-40 different pathos and stupas in the last 3 days and I think I'll take a temple break tomorrow.
I want to get back on the saddle as for the last 10 days I have not done any long distance riding. Mostly due to the sickness and partly due to dull scenery. It is difficult to find books as well, so far I managed to get John Irving's "The fourth hand" and a George Orwell's classic "Burmese Days" (I guess you have to read this book when you come to Burma). I anticipate about 5-6 days ride into Rangoon that is if I feel better.
Unfortunately, I have not had that much interaction with local people as of late, however it was to be expected if you hang around tourist areas. The vendors are a bit too much sometimes as you are perceived as a walking wallet. Not to offend anyone, but packaged tourists really spoil the locals and kind of ruin the affair for other travelers. I understand the need for comfort that some people require but giving kids money and pens only prompts them to beg in the future. Thus the results of current situation, vendors and kids running after you from temple to temple holding out a hand and expecting a 'gift'.
Mandalay is a nice city, a bit to quiet for its size but pleasant to ride around in. A few overpriced tourist attractions but there's always a way to scan the system. I managed not to pay a single dollar to the gov't and got to see most of the places I wanted to go.
Coming back from Inle lake I boarded a train to a small town of Thazi. While booking my ticket I requested ordinary class instead of the gov't imposed 1st class and managed to sneak on board without any hassles. On the train I was seated with 3 old ladies and we had a bit of fun. They did not speak English and my Burmese is very non existent, but they kept feeding me food on the entire journey and one lady kept pointing to me then to her and then to a picture of her daughter. She was on my case for 4 hours to go with her back to her village and meet her daughter. I kindly declined pointing to my finger as an indication that I was married back home. I considered buying a wedding ring! But it was all in good fun, the people on the train were a lot of fun and happy to see a whacked foreigner declining 1st class in order to sit with the locals. Mind you the train ride was about 10 hours and my ass was hurting.
Another lady was quite funny looking she was missing two font teeth and the two beside the missing ones were very long fang like teeth, the looked like roger rabbit with missing front teeth, but she was a fun old gal!
Ok, gotta jet for now as my appetite is coming back, a good sign. By the way the guys back in Mektila bought me a whiskey and asked me to predict the results for last weekend internation games, luckily I got it right again. Too bad one of the guys turned out to be a military block, be careful what you say and who you drink with in Burma.
Cheers,
Robert
Last few days I have spent sick and this has not been good timing considering I have arrived in Bagan. One of the most interesting sites in SEA consisting of 40 Square Km filled with stupas (zedis) and pathos (ancient pagodas). The amount of ancient ruins is quite staggering, the official number is about 2500+, but is you take into account not fully unexcavated sites its more like 4000+. Climbing some of the temples reveals the plains dotted with pagodas.
As spectacular as they are, after 3 days you are so called 'Templed Out'. Most temples have a similar layout, four sided, main entrance from the east. I have visited about 30-40 different pathos and stupas in the last 3 days and I think I'll take a temple break tomorrow.
I want to get back on the saddle as for the last 10 days I have not done any long distance riding. Mostly due to the sickness and partly due to dull scenery. It is difficult to find books as well, so far I managed to get John Irving's "The fourth hand" and a George Orwell's classic "Burmese Days" (I guess you have to read this book when you come to Burma). I anticipate about 5-6 days ride into Rangoon that is if I feel better.
Unfortunately, I have not had that much interaction with local people as of late, however it was to be expected if you hang around tourist areas. The vendors are a bit too much sometimes as you are perceived as a walking wallet. Not to offend anyone, but packaged tourists really spoil the locals and kind of ruin the affair for other travelers. I understand the need for comfort that some people require but giving kids money and pens only prompts them to beg in the future. Thus the results of current situation, vendors and kids running after you from temple to temple holding out a hand and expecting a 'gift'.
Mandalay is a nice city, a bit to quiet for its size but pleasant to ride around in. A few overpriced tourist attractions but there's always a way to scan the system. I managed not to pay a single dollar to the gov't and got to see most of the places I wanted to go.
Coming back from Inle lake I boarded a train to a small town of Thazi. While booking my ticket I requested ordinary class instead of the gov't imposed 1st class and managed to sneak on board without any hassles. On the train I was seated with 3 old ladies and we had a bit of fun. They did not speak English and my Burmese is very non existent, but they kept feeding me food on the entire journey and one lady kept pointing to me then to her and then to a picture of her daughter. She was on my case for 4 hours to go with her back to her village and meet her daughter. I kindly declined pointing to my finger as an indication that I was married back home. I considered buying a wedding ring! But it was all in good fun, the people on the train were a lot of fun and happy to see a whacked foreigner declining 1st class in order to sit with the locals. Mind you the train ride was about 10 hours and my ass was hurting.
Another lady was quite funny looking she was missing two font teeth and the two beside the missing ones were very long fang like teeth, the looked like roger rabbit with missing front teeth, but she was a fun old gal!
Ok, gotta jet for now as my appetite is coming back, a good sign. By the way the guys back in Mektila bought me a whiskey and asked me to predict the results for last weekend internation games, luckily I got it right again. Too bad one of the guys turned out to be a military block, be careful what you say and who you drink with in Burma.
Cheers,
Robert
posted by Rob at 3:42 AM
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