Saying final "Sabadii" to Lao

New photos:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lloronapr/my_photos

Quite a few things happened along the way during the last week or so in Lao.

Starting off from Luang Prabang I had a nice day of rolling hills along a river. A very relaxing day where you are glad to be alive. No traffic and just small villages along the way. Met some cyclists in town (crossroad) and we shared a guesthouse with a number of rodents running around. Actually the last week was all about nice and rats in the guesthouses. I hate the damn things and they are so casual going about their business when you put a light on them!

Next day I was anticipating a 28km / about 900m climb and then I was assured that it would all "downhill".
Well you guessed it, it was mostly uphill, well the day as well as the road.

What turned out to be one of the toughest days due to mechanical problems which a guy from Canada fixed on my bike. If I ever go back to Luang Prabang, Derek, you better run and hide because this time I'm coming to Lao with a battalion of baseball bats. My wheel almost come of on a descent and when I checked the quick release, it was very loose. Next I noticed that the hub axle was not tightened properly and the bearings almost fell out. I did an emergency overhaul with bike lube and got on my way. As well gear and brake adjustments that he did were essentially a rubbish job. All the kids don't read the next line, but in Bangkok you can buy a nice t-shirt with "F*CK YOU, YOU F*CKING F*UCK". I will get one and dedicate to Derek from White Elephant Adventures in Luang Prabang.

The following day was the complete opposite. The scenery was splendid with rolling hills, mountain ranges on both sides of valley and a small section in a jungle. The last two days in Lao was something to remember.
Personal journal entry:
Captain's Log. Stardate 2545. Ok. just kidding.
"Cruising through quiet villages with locals going about their daily lives. Drying corn, washing children and clothes, attending livestock and kids going to riding their their bikes from school. All seems so simple and pristine. I really love the serenity and calmness of the Laotian people. They seems to be happy in their essence of life. Sitting down by Nam Bon (river) just off the side of Highway 2 is quite pleasant. A kid about 14 is running in his underwear, snorkeling mask and a homemade harpoon fishing small catfish and silverfish to enjoy with his friends over a bon fire. I know it is not that remote, but it does give a sense of traditional life. Life does make progress here due mostly to tourism and foreign exploration / exploitation (gold and copper, I met two Aussies looking for gold in the mountains, as well locals by the Mekong are sifting the riverside looking for gold). But the hunter and gatherer aspect of life still remains. ... It was quite interesting and somewhat awkward when I stopped to drink local rice wine / alcohol at a small village on the way. Most of the people in the village gathered around to see a crazy "Falang" on a bicycle stop to get drunk with the locals. It is essentially a big pot filled with fermented rice being consumed via a bamboo stick hollow inside. It did not catch up to me that this stuff was strong until I got on the bike. Good thing it was an easy day. (check of the photo)"



After the cycling was over I had to jump on the boat to take to the border up the stream to Thailand. Well, this was the only form of transportation I have undertaken in Lao, it turned out to be a very sad day. A Laotian man around 20 was on the boat with us. He looked a little sick at first with red dots on his legs and belly. I was sitting sideways on a bench in the back of the boat just ahead of this guy when suddenly a Lao man in front me yelled out something. As I turned around I saw the young fellow look back at me for split second and then he jumped into the river. It is essentially a death sentence when you jump into the middle of the Mekong. I saw him trying to swim to shore but the current was too strong. He resurfaced twice and then the third time the river pulled him under. His uncle/caretaker panicked and stripped to jump after him, but he knew his fate if he did it. A brave young man grabbed an empty gasoline container and jump after him, but it was too late. In the aftermath it turned out that the man had a mentally illness and while his uncle went to the back of the boat to have a drink with the locals he decided to escape. I'm not sure if he was aware of the consequences, for a while it look as if he was trying to swim but the river caught up with him.

Lao was great and I will definitely try to come back in the future. Sorry there's too much to write about...

Ok, I've spend about 3 hours on the computer today and I'm tired of it.


Lao Leg 2 and total:
Vientiane - Hin Huep - 100km
Hin Huep - Vang Vieng - 65km
Vang Vieng - Kasi - 59km
Kasi - Kiukachan - 93km
Kiukachan - Luang Prabang - 83km
Luang Prabang - Patmong - 113km
Patmong - Udomxai - 81km
Udomxai - Muang Houn - 94km
Muang Houn - Pakbeng - 52km

Total Leg 2: 740km
Daily Average: 82km
Best day(s): Gruelling 93km day with most of it climbing from Kasi to Kirukachan
Last two days of cycling in Lao in a valley surrounded by mountain ranges and a strech via a jungle.
Almost everyday of cycling in the north.
Worst day: Patmong to Odomxai. A "bike mechanic" from London, Ontario was working on my bike in Luang Prabang causing the front wheel to almost fall of on a descent. The day was tough enough with two mountain passes one of 28km. My body was not responding to the climbs that day and the bike as well.
Saddest Day: A Laotian guy drowing in the Mekong.
Rain Days: about 10 minutes on one day
Punctures: 0 (yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Dog bites: 0
Number of navigational screw ups: impossible to do in Lao!
Number of 'Sabadii': too many to count
Cycling satisfaction: Leg 1: 8 out of 10. Leg 2: 10 out of 10!

Total km in Lao: 1638km

Run to the hills, run for your life!

Vientiane has to be one of the most relaxed capital cities I have ever been to. The waterfront along the Mekong hosts a number of somewhat overpriced restaurants but the sunset over the river is spectacular.

As well, That Luang is the jewel of the capital. The golden lotus inspired spire in the middle of the stupa surrounded by three levels looks like a monument taken from another lifetime. The magnificent effect of sun shinning of the top spire against a blue sky is something that will remain in my memory for a long time.

Patuxai (Laotian version of the Arc De Triumph) is quite a spectacular way of welcoming travelers into the city. I had to ride my bicycle through there, I couldn’t resist it.

Another very surreal place was the Buddha Park which contains almost all characters from Buddhism and Hinduism, including a 50m reclining Buddha and a giant pumpkin representing heaven, earth and hell. Amongst other figures there were very bizarre serpents and a warrior like creatures.

As well I visited Beer Lao brewery, couldn’t pass on a free beer and free tour. Cheers to the good folks at Beer Lao!

After spending two delightful days in Vientiane and doing the tourist thing it was time to take a deep breath and head for the mountains.

After discussing the terrain and climbs with cyclists along the way I knew that I’ll be in for some of the hardest climbing I have ever done. I have to admit that I have not had much experience in passing mountains on a bicycle other than suffering like a dog in Costa Rica Talamanca mountain range where I ignorantly assumed that “well, there are some elevations but I shouldn’t have a problem”. The truth was far from that, but after doing some climbs in Thailand with a light load I became a little bit more confident about this endeavor.

As well after meeting a 69 year old French cyclist who has done the same route in the opposite direction my confidence shot up. Hats off to this man, I wish I’ll be alive at that age, hopefully walking and maybe ride my bike to the local store around the corner.

The first 165Km up to a town named Kasi were reasonable with two hills of about 500m to speak of. Everybody was warning me about the road north of Kasi and they were absolutely right. The day started easy enough with a nice few kilometers ride from Kasi.

After that started a 20Km (actually my meter showed 28km, this included a small descent), I was glad that it was the beginning of the day as climbing at about 8-10 km\h can have physiological as well as physical effects. I switched my cycle-computer to show time in order not to view my progress, which can be rather annoying sometimes. Where you’re used to doing 1km every 3 minutes and now you’re crawling up the mountain at about 1km every 9 minutes, well it can get to you. I do have more patient and this takes time.

With brakes it took about 3.5 hours to do the climb, riding from 400m to 1400m. On the way I met two cyclists from Belgium, Maude and Dirk going the same direction. After reaching Phu Khun and stopping for lunch I decided to skip The Plain of Jars and continue riding with my fellow cyclists.

We were expecting two or more passes of about 400-500m each, but we had about 4 or 5, I can not really remember. The day seemed like it would never end but eventually we made our way to a small town of Kiuachan completing a 93km day. I swear about 70% must have been climbing and we were all glad to find a bed to crash in. Two climbs were 10% gradient, and quite a few I feel between 7%-9%.

Maude and Dirk are almost finished with their 10 month cycling trip across south America and Asia. They were good company and especially Maude who was a quiet woman but extremely tough and never complained (unlike me, haha; actually I love the mountains and the physical demand of it. It’s much more fun then the flats).

At the guest house we met three more cyclists who came from Luang Prabang and really got their asses kicked because they were expecting an easy day. Cheers boys! We spent the next few hours sitting around, drinking beers, discussing maps and routes. As well complaining about backpackers, as Paul from Dublin stated: “I don’t believe in what Pol Pot has done, but for once I would like to pull them out the air-con busses, make them put on the backpacks and say ‘Start walking or I’ll shoot’”. For people unfamiliar with touring cyclists there is a “hidden war” between the two parties. I tend to be on the cyclists side but not on the “far right (or left in case of the Khmer Rouge, ;-)”.

Next day we were treated with an adrenaline pumping 20km descent down the mountain. What a rush, cruising at 30-55km\h into constant switchbacks and morning mist. The scenery was stunning and after looking up once a while you see how hard you had to work for it. But as fate would have it we had to endure another 15km climb, but after the previous day it seemed manageable. After that it was a smooth ride to the ancient capital of Luang Prabang, a city which is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Quite a stunning city but a bit too touristy.

As well, along the way there were reports of rebel attacks but cyclists never had a problem. I saw a couple of guys walking with AK-47 over their shoulders, it gets your senses going again. Paul was stopped by two locals with AKs asking him to sit down for a chat. He got away without any problems.

The locals in the mountains were very friendly and welcoming. The kids would cheers me on and slap high-fives along the way. Sometimes they were very loud with cheerful encouragements. It helped.


Well, my visa and money is almost up in Lao. I’ll cycle for three more days and then relax for a couple before heading back home, I mean Thailand (just kidding, although Bangkok is the central base).

Then off to Burma for a month or so.

Cheers and all the best.

Robert

P.S. I managed to find a Polish book by Wojciech Jagielski, "Modlitwa o deszcz" about the recent war in Afganistan in Luang Prabang used bookstore.
What are the odds! Na Zdrowie!